Le Meurice
Anyone wanting a grand-slam experience of
Gallic gastronomic grandeur won't do better than the glamorous dining
room at the Hotel Meurice in the heart of the city. Though it was
redecorated by Philippe Starck several years ago, it's good French bones
survived intact – mosaic floor, crystal chandeliers, heavy damask
curtains at the windows overlooking the Tuileries Gardens across the
street – and the magnificent space is animated by old-school but
friendly service that's as precise as a minuette. Chef Yannick Alléno
bagged a third Michelin star in 2007, and his brilliantly inventive
cooking is based on a deep knowledge of classical Escoffier vintage
culinary technique. In addition to such recent creations as crispy green
ravioli with a fricassee of snails and wild garlic, a starter, and
spit-roasted red-wine marinated pigeon with red cabbage and apple juice,
Alléno has become a dedicated locavore by occasionally featuring rare
produce from the Ile de
France – cabbage from Pontoise, honey from hives on the roof of
Paris's Opéra Garnier – on his regularly evolving menu.
• 228 rue de Rivoli, 1st, + 33 1 44 58 10 10, lemeurice.com. Métro: Tuileries. Open for lunch and dinner from Mon-Fri. Average €200. Jackets compulsory at dinner
L'Astrance
Despite the vertiginous prices of Paris haute cuisine, a meal at one of these
nec plus ultra
tables is an investment that just can't disappoint, and snagging a
sought-after table at chef Pascal Barbot's three-star restaurant on a
cobbled side street in the 16th arrondissement is well worth
persistence. The smallest and most casual table at the top of the
Parisian food chain, this high-ceilinged dining room with mirrored
walls, widely spaced tables and friendly service offers a decidedly
21st-century take on French haute cuisine. Barbot, who trained with
Alain Passard and once served as chef to the admiral of the French
Pacific fleet, loves vegetables, fruit and fresh herbs, and his style is
brilliantly witty and deeply imaginative, as seen in signature dishes
such as his galette of finely sliced button mushrooms and verjus
marinated foie gras dressed with hazelnut oil, or turbot with baby
spinach and sea urchins, both of which are part of his regularly
changing tasting menus.
• 4 rue Beethoven, 16th, +33 1 40 50 84
40. Métro: Passy. Open for lunch and dinner Tues–Fri. Average lunch €80,
average dinner €200
Huitrerie Regis
Tucked away in the heart of Saint Germain des Pres, this snug
shop-front table with a white facade and interior is the best place in
Paris for a fix of impeccably fresh oysters, which are delivered
directly from France's Marennes-Oléron region on the Atlantic coast.
Depending upon availability, prawns, clams and sea urchins can also be
added to your
plateau de fruits de mer, which will be served
with bread and butter. A nice selection of mostly Loire valley white
wines complements the bivalve-centric menu, and a convivial atmosphere
is created by the jovial oyster shuckers and many local regulars.
• 3 rue de Montfaucon, 6th, +33 1 44 41 10 07, huitrerieregis.com. Métro: Mabillon or Saint Germain des Pres. Open Tues–Sun for lunch and dinner. Average €35. No reservations
Macéo
Run by Englishman Mark Williamson – whose
Willi's Wine Bar
around the corner is a favourite local bolthole for Parisian oenophiles
– this handsome restaurant with oxblood walls, wedding cake mouldings
and parquet floors overlooks the Palais Royal in the heart of Paris.
Chef Thierry Bourbonnais not only includes many vegetable dishes on his
menu – making this a good choice for vegetarians – but features
regularly changing tasting menus themed around a single vegetable, such
as asparagus or tomatoes. Dishes like scallops marinated in sea weed oil
on a bed of quinoa and wild sea bass with baby carrots and mange toute
on a bed of cumin-scented bulghur show off his cosmopolitan style.
Excellent wine list.
• 15 rue des Petits-Champs, 1st, +33 1 42 97 53 85, maceorestaurant.com.
Métro: Pyramides or Palais Royal. Open for lunch and dinner Mon-Fri,
Sat dinner only. Closed Sun. Prix-fixe menus €33 (vegetarian), €38 and
€48; average à la carte €60
Spring
Ever since Chicago-born chef Daniel Rose moved from the 9th
arrondissement to a renovated 17th-century house in Les Halles in July
2010, he's been playing to a packed house with his inventive
cuisine du marche
menu. This talented American shows off just how cosmopolitan the city's
culinary talent pool has become, and Parisians have been swooning over
dishes such as Basque country trout with avocado and coriander flowers
and grilled New Caledonian prawns on a bed of shaved baby fennel.
There's also Buvette (wine bar) in the basement, with a selection of
charcuterie, cheese and several plats du jour; and with reservations
tough to land for a table upstairs, it's a good bet for anyone who wants
to taste Rose's wares without going through the reservation wringer.
• 6 rue Bailleul, 1st, + 33 1 45 96 05 72, springparis.fr.
Métro: Louvre-Rivoli. Restaurant open for dinner Tues-Sat, lunch
Wed-Fri; Buvette open for dinner Tues-Sat. Restaurant average €150;
Buvette average €50
Les Tablettes
Signalling a revival of the serious, dressed-up restaurant in Paris
(which had lost out as a vehicle for young chefs going out on their own
in favour of the bistro) chef Jean-Louis Nomicos's new table in the
swanky 16th arrondissement has a dramatic modern basket-weave interior
by French interior designer Anne-Cécile Comar and a dog's leg banquette
upholstered in apricot velvet. Nomicos, who most recently cooked at
long-running society restaurant
Lasserre,
trained with Alain Ducasse and is originally from Marseille – which
explains the produce-centric nature of his excellent contemporary French
cooking and its Provencal accent with a starter such as squid and
artichokes
barigoule (cooked with white wine, lemon and herbs)
and veal sweetbreads with a confetti of lemon pulp offering good
examples of his style.
• 16 avenue Bugeaud, 16th,+33 1 56 28 16 16, lestablettesjeanlouisnomicos.com. Métro: Victor Hugo. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Lunch menu €58; tasting menus €80, €120 and €150; à la carte €90
Le Stella
Since most of Paris's storied brasseries are now owned by corporate
chains and serve wiltingly mediocre food, it's a pleasure to head to one
of the last remaining independent ones in a quiet corner of the
silk-stocking 16th arrondissement for a fine feed of such well-prepared
French classics as onion soup, escargots, sole meunière, steak tartare,
roast lamb and other Gallic standards. The people-watching here might be
subtitled "the discreet charm of the bourgeoisie", service is efficient
and this place has what the French call
du gueule, or real character.
• 133, avenue Victor Hugo, 16th, +33 1 56 90 56 00. Métro: Victor Hugo. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Average €45
Thoumieux
Previously head chef at the glamorous Les Ambassadeurs at the
Hotel de Crillon,
chef Jean-Francois Piège went out on his own two years ago when he
rebooted Thoumieux, a long-running Left Bank brasserie known for its
cassoulet and huge resident cat. While the new menu and slick Manhattan
supper club décor at this address created a lot of buzz, this
gastronomically witty young chef's talent was never really on display
here until he opened an intimate first-floor restaurant with a Las
Vegas, rat-pack decor by Parisian interior designer India Mahdavi at the
same address last autumn. A veteran of several Alain Ducasse kitchens,
the very shrewd Piège understood that the traditional French restaurant
experience needed tweaking – people go out now to have a good time,
eschew formatted formality, and don't always want the three-step
performance of starter, main and pudding. So here you can order a single
dish, maybe a delicious riff on paella comprised of lobster,
langoustines, squid, baby clams and cockles in a saffron-spiked
shellfish fumet, and still get a suite of hors d'oeuvres to start, a
cheese course and dessert. Not surprisingly, this restaurant just won
two Michelin stars in one fell swoop.
• 79 rue Saint Dominique, 7th, +33 1 47 05 79 00, thoumieux.fr. Métro: La Tour Maubourg. Open daily for dinner only. Average €75
Yam'Tcha
After training with chef Pascal Barbot at the three-star L'Astrance,
young Burgundy-born cook Adeline Grattard – one of the still rare female
chefs in Paris – did a stint in Hong Kong during which she fell in love
with Asian produce and cooking techniques and met her husband Chiwah,
who works as the tea steward (as an alternative to wine, you can be
served a different tea with every course of your meal here). At their
small charming restaurant near Les Halles, with a beamed ceiling and
ancient stone walls, Grattard's tasting menus change according to her
daily shop, but dishes such as grilled scallops on a bed of bean sprouts
in bright green wild-garlic sauce and a superb dessert of homemade
ginger ice-cream with avocado slices and passion fruit deliciously
display the finely honed culinary technique and imagination that won her
a Michelin star.
• 4 rue Sauval, 1st, +33 1 40 26 08 07. Métro:
Louvre-Rivoli. Open for lunch and dinner Wed-Sat, Sun dinner only.
Prix-fixe menus €50 and €85
Ze Kitchen Galerie
Styled like the neighbouring art galleries on this Saint Germain des
Pres side street, this loft-like white space with parquet floors is
furnished with steel tables and chairs and decorated with contemporary
art. Chef William Ledeuil's popular restaurant offers an intriguing
experience of contemporary French cooking. Ledeuil, who trained with Guy
Savoy, is fascinated by Asia and makes imaginative use of oriental
herbs and ingredients in original dishes like Sardinian
malloreddus
pasta with a pesto of Thai herbs, parmesan cream and green olive
condiment, or grilled monkfish with an aubergine marmelade and
Thai-seasoned sauce vierge.
• 4 rue des Grands-Augustins, 6th, +33 1 44 32 00 32, zekitchengalerie.fr. Métro: Odeon. Open for lunch and dinner Mon-Sat. Average €55
Average prices are per person without wine
• Alexander Lobrano is the author of the Paris food website hungryforparis.squarespace.com
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