1. Noma
Noma so perfectly encapsulates the current zeitgeist that it's easy to forget the part it has played in shaping current global restaurant trends. Local, seasonal ingredients? Check. A simpler, more informal style of dining? Check. A restaurant that's more connected to its local environment? Check. But to suggest that the genesis of Noma was some sort of box-ticking exercise does it no justice at all. Besides, describing Noma as majoring on local, seasonal produce is a little like saying Picasso knew how to draw a bit. It doesn't begin to explain the lengths Redzepi and his team go to in order to source the best Nordic produce available. It doesn't begin to explain their demand for foraged food, which has now spawned a huge network of gatherers, farmers and foragers who supply Noma with its needs. Even the chefs themselves, on their days off, head off to the countryside to gather plants for the kitchen.
Paul Wootton
• Interview: Jay Rayner meets Rene Redzepi.
Paul Wootton
• Interview: Jay Rayner meets Rene Redzepi.
2. El Bulli
When chef-patron Ferran Adrià announced that he would be closing El Bulli next year, reopening it two years later not as a restaurant but as a culinary 'foundation', he created a media firestorm that has yet to fully die down. This is because El Bulli is a truly ground-breaking affair the likes of which were unseen before it opened. It tore up the rule book of fine dining and continues to do so year after year after year, generating a remarkable, not to mention exhausting, outpouring of creativity. Where else can you go and experience some 40 courses of extraordinary, thought-provoking food in a single evening? Forty unique conceits designed to make you smile, discuss, frown and sigh, created to bewilder you, amuse you and provoke you. What other restaurant can you visit where such a complicated menu is written anew every year? El Bulli is the drive from the nearest town, Roses, a 20-minute meander over a headland, with breathtaking views of the sea. You're not even there yet, but the adventure has already begun.
• Video: A day at El Bulli
Paul Wootton• Video: A day at El Bulli
3. The Fat Duck
The word 'unique' is overused in the restaurant business, but if one place in the world is worthy of the adjective, it is The Fat Duck. Since it opened quietly in 1995, this tiny restaurant in Bray has revolutionised the perception of high-end dining among the UK's wider public with its scientific, theatrical and (most of all) fun approach to food and dining out. A la carte was scrapped recently for a tasting-menu only offer, reflecting the fact that people are coming for a once in a lifetime gastronomic experience rather than a conventional meal. It's a succession of dishes that have been developed for years with the odd 'new' plate thrown in for good measure. Nothing on the menu stands still, though; the plates are constantly refined and perfected. The Fat Duck is a truly revolutionary restaurant, unsurpassed in its bold reworking of the traditional dining experience. As such, Blumenthal is rightly feted far beyond these shores, and is a brilliant ambassador for the UK.
Joe Lutrario
• More on Heston Blumenthal and the Fat Duck
Joe Lutrario
• More on Heston Blumenthal and the Fat Duck
4. El Celler de Can Roca
Since the new El Celler de Can Roca opened in November 2007 – 100 metres from the old one – the cooking has become more assured and the state-of-the-art kitchens and a fiercely modern design are more fitting for a restaurant at the forefront of the Spanish avant-garde. The philosophy that underpins El Celler is 'emotional cuisine', a belief that different ingredients elicit different emotional responses. So it shares with its fellow avant-garde restaurants the knowledge that food can do much more than just fill your stomach. The restaurant is particularly interested in triggering memories through smells – memories of landscapes and of childhood. A sweet potato sorbet comes with a 'bubble' of smoke, which, when opened, transports you to a camping trip of long ago. A distillate of earth conjures memories of walks in the woods and feelings of melancholy. Sound far-fetched? El Cellar can do it. It's like a culinary Doctor Whs. Give it the chance and it'll take you on some ride.
Paul Wootton
• Video: Inside the Celler de Can Roca
Paul Wootton
• Video: Inside the Celler de Can Roca
5. Mugaritz
Murgaritz was all but razed to the ground in February this year when a fire gutted the restaurant yet, under chef Andoni Luis Aduriz – or just Andoni as he is more commonly known in the industry – Mugaritz will rise again from the ashes. And how. Not only is the intention to have the restaurant fully reopened to the public by the end of June – no small achievement considering the kitchens were completely destroyed – but it will be better than before. More room is being given for the chefs to work, more natural light will be used and the team is also toying with the idea of surrounding the kitchen in glass to allow diners to see the chefs at work because, as Andoni says, "we have nothing to hide". It's a tempting proposition and the knowledge that one of the world's best restaurants is aiming for new heights will probably make it even harder to secure a table. But if you persevere you'll be treated with food from one of the most exciting chefs of Spain's culinary elite.Stefan Chomka
6. Osteria Francescana
Massimo Bottura is a culinary primo uomo in Italy, and Osteria Francescana has risen faster up the list than almost any other venue since its inception. So what's all the fuss about? Bottura's food, that's what. He takes a stunning cuisine – many of Italy's most eminent foods originated in Emilia-Romagna, think Parmigiano Reggiano, tortellini and ragù alla Bolognese – and gently challenges diners' perception of it. A few comparatively straightforward processes and techniques – sous vide, syphons and distillation – have linked Osteria Francescana to that increasingly dreaded amalgam of words; molecular gastronomy. He's even had an Italian TV programme attack him over his alleged use of harmful additives. His food may be cutting edge but it is by no means technology or additive-led. He is not turning things into something else or trying to confound expectations – his is a gentler art closely linked to Italian custom.Joe Lutrario
7. Alinea
The idea for Grant Achatz's temple to cutting-edge cuisine first began to take shape after the young chef did a short stint at El Bulli. It was only a four-day stage, organised by Achatz's employer at the time, Thomas Keller – but four days was enough: like so many chefs who have eaten or worked there, Achatz had an El Bulli epiphany. The ground-breaking Spanish restaurant opened his mind to the possibilities of what a restaurant could be. Since then, Achatz has become the wunderkind of 'Progressive American' food and Alinea, since opening in Chicago just five years ago, is already the stuff of legend. You don't come here if you want a quick bite to eat. The current 23-course 'Tour' menu is likely to take you four and a half hours, with a succession of delightful surprises. The experience is an interactive one, too. A new dish called Pork Belly, Curry, Cucumber, Lime invites the guest to assemble the 'bowl' in which the dish will be served.Paul Wootton
8. Daniel
Last October Daniel Boulud finally gained three Michelin stars for his eponymous New York restaurant but for many it has been a long time coming, considering this New York culinary colossus in Upper East Side has routinely been praised by the James Beard Awards and The New York Times during its 16-year history. This latest accolade, however, rubber-stamps Boulud's influence on the New York dining scene – his is only the fifth restaurant in the city to earn the coveted third star – and raises him to the high priest status already afforded by the city to Thomas Keller, Jean Georges Vongerichten and Mario Batali. Daniel underwent a revamp in the summer of 2008, giving the restaurant a more contemporary feel while staying sympathetic to its neoclassical architecture, and its menu also demonstrates a melding of the past and present by combining classical cooking techniques with contemporary combinations.Stefan Chomka
9. Arzak
The genius of Arzak is that while it has been reaching for the stars for more than three decades (it was the first restaurant in Spain to win three of Michelin's, back in 1989), it has kept its feet firmly grounded in the culinary traditions and rich soil of the Basque country. Despite its celebrity following and cutting-edge cuisine, Arzak retains the charm and unpretentiousness of a family restaurant. The current owner is Juan Mari Arzak, who runs it in tandem with his daughter, Elena, the fourth generation of the family to work in the kitchen. They combine classic Basque ingredients, such as hake, squid and foie gras with their own innovation, which takes place upstairs in the famous "cocina de investigación", a laboratory equipped with a freeze dryer and hydrator, among other hi-tech gear. Next door in the spice room are more than 1,500 different herbs, spices and ingredients from all over the world.Gavin McOwan
10. Per Se
The departure of chef de cuisine Jonathan Benno in January this year marked a new chapter in the six-year history of Thomas Keller's New York stalwart Per Se, but by keeping it in the family, as it were, with new chef de cuisine Eli Kaimeh, the restaurant's impeccable standards have remained intact. Kaimeh has been at the restaurant since its inception, first as chef de partie and latterly as sous chef and under his guidance Per Se remains the urban interpretation of Keller's Yountville outpost The French Laundry. Last year Per Se's reputation as the New York expense account venue that was harder to get into than a James Joyce novel took a knock when news broke across the internet that tables usually unattainable to the masses – ie at times when you might want to eat – were now available online thanks the recession. Yet it has proven these are mere storms in expensive china teacups. Today booking a table is as hard as ever (11.30pm on a Tuesday night, anyone?) and people are more than willing to stump up the $275 prix fixe menu to taste period-defining cooking.Stefan Chomka
11. Le Chateaubriand
Le Chateaubriand breaks the mould of top French restaurants serving haute cuisine. Its classy, inventive food would grace the tables of the swankiest venues but is served instead in a simple bistro setting, complete with zinc bar, chalk boards and hard wooden chairs. Chef-patron Iñaki Aizpitarte wanted to create a restaurant where his friends could afford to eat, so this is fine dining at its most democratic; the prices, together with the young, cool staff and the simple, unintimidating decor draw an eclectic clientele and the atmosphere is all the better for it. Aizpitarte has a penchant for deconstructing classics and reworking them, and also a focus on pared-back simplicity. There are plenty of bold, imaginative flavour combinations but many dishes employ very little 'cooking' – unadulterated, raw ingredients are a significant feature of his menus. A five-course prix fixe menu changes daily and you get no choice in what you eat, but it's this system that allows prices to be kept low.Paul Wootton
12. La Colombe
The rural South African setting of La Colombe, complete with views of the nearby vineyards and the local cricket pitch, might seem an unlikely setting for a British-born chef to be cooking French food with Japanese influences, but it's a combination that's working. Since taking over the kitchen in 2006, Luke Dale Roberts has brought Asian influences to his regular clientele and was awarded with both Chef of the Year and Restaurant of the Year in the Prudential Eat Out Awards 2008 for his troubles. La Colombe retained the title last year, as well as achieving the highest three-star rating in the 2010 issue of South Africa's Rossouw's Restaurants guide. Dale Roberts' trademarks are bold flavours, textures and presentation, so don't expect anything too simple, as demonstrated by this season's new dishes such as fricassee of sweetbreads and Cape crayfish, creamy miso dressing, shitaki teriyaki, chickpeas and farm herbs.Stefan Chomka
13. Pierre Gagnaire
Pierre Gagnaire's poetic, technical and spontaneous approach to cooking can please and shock in equal measure – he is often considered to be France's most exciting (and most enigmatic) chef. Gagnaire is also most at home in the kitchen, so much of his time over the coming months is likely to be spent in Tokyo following his return to Japan at the Ana Intercontinental earlier this year. Nevertheless it is his restaurant on Rue Balzac in Paris that remains the epicentre for Gagnaire's smouldering genius and his obsession with creating combinations so unlikely that they appear to be the product of chance. Unlike other 'molecular' chefs, who take a chemist's attitude to their art, Gagnaire claims his to be a more biological approach, conducting experiments with researcher Hervé This on advanced cooking techniques. The outcome is a many-layered menu of what he calls "multi-sensory hits" created with numerous and expensive ingredients.Stefan Chomka
14. Restaurant de l'Hôtel de Ville
Frédy Girardet's philosophy of peerless fresh produce and ever-changing menus still runs deep at L'Hôtel de Ville, but Philippe Rochat has certainly put his own stamp on one of Europe's most iconic restaurants. With his mantra of each plate only needing three flavours, Rochat's food is simple, creative and elegant. Though French at heart – apparently a copy of Escoffier's Ma Cuisine is placed symbolically on a prominent kitchen shelf – the kitchen is not afraid to draw on other areas of the world for culinary inspiration. A true perfectionist, Rochat is in the kitchen every day the restaurant is open.Joe Lutrario
15. Le Bernardin
If Fergus Henderson is master of the pig then Eric Ripert is his equal concerning all things aquatic. His dinner menu is a pescatarian's wet dream, taking the diner on a trawl of the senses, starting from the 'almost raw' selection, which includes a 'progressive tasting of Kumamoto oyster 'en gelé'; from light and refreshing to complex and spicy', and then moving on through 'barely touched' dishes such as sea urchin risotto to the 'lightly cooked' course of even more fish. Meat eaters can enjoy what must be one of the best surf and turfs in town, but if there were any doubts here that fish is king, a look at Ripert's tasting menus, where 90% of the savoury courses are from the sea, will lay these to rest. For people who have stumbled into the wrong restaurant, squab, duck, beef and pasta dishes are available "on request", but you get the feeling that asking for one would be rather like asking whether Henderson served vegetarian bacon.Stefan Chomka
16. L'Astrance
When L'Astrance gained its third star in the 2007 Michelin Guide there were mutterings. Where was the silverware? Where were the tablecloths? And – most audibly – where were the menus? High-end French dining is about luxury and tradition, but Pascal Barbot has redrawn the lines of what a top-flight Parisian restaurant can be with this tiny, comparatively informal restaurant. There are no menus: just tell Barbot what you can or won't eat and he'll get to work on designing a succession of intricate dishes using ingredients and techniques from all over the world. Pigeon is sautéed in an enclosed pan (the traditional French way) but is served with strawberries cooked in oil flavoured with quinine, while foie gras is marinated in verjus and presented with raw button mushroom shavings.Joe Lutrario
17. Hof van Cleve
Can't name a famous Belgian? Now you can. Peter Goossens is the country's best-known chef; its culinary equivalent of Tintin and the saxophone. Working out of a small farm building conversion in western Flanders, van Cleve serves provenance-led food that's heralded by most as the best the country has to offer. In recent years, Goossens' cooking has taken on a more global hue, with a Japanese influence evident on the tasting menu: yuzu, dashi, abalone and wasabi mingle with expertly sourced produce from little-known Flanders farms. But sophisticated and creative use of traditional Belgian ingredients remains the core focus of Goossens' menu – an approach summed up neatly by a dish of turbot served with leek stoemp, Belgian caviar, shrimp and beer sauce. If you forgo a tasting menu, best have a defibrillator handy when the bill hits the table — Hof van Cleve is one of the priciest on the list, with said turbot dish priced at an eye-watering 170 euros.Joe Lutrario
18. D.O.M.
A revamped D.O.M. with fewer seats and a more restrained decor was unveiled in March this year but everything else remains the same at Brazil's most cutting-edge establishment. The brightly coloured walls may now be beige and the private dining room now more, well, private, but the high-rollers that frequent this São Paulo landmark can rest assured that there has been no such overhaul of the menu. Atala's cooking is a tale of contrasts: on the one hand the restaurant's close proximity to the Amazonian region means it can get its hands on a myriad of ingredients out of reach to many other top kitchens - think large purslane or Amazonian fish – but on the other he uses this produce more sparingly than most to create bright, simple and flavour-bursting dishes, such as homemade gnocchi with oxtail. So infatuated is Atala with the Amazon's bounty, he even works with scientists to discover new products and tests out whether they are safe to eat in his kitchen (although not on his guests).Stefan Chomka
19. Oud Sluis
Chef Sergio Herman changes the menu at this tiny resort town restaurant on the Zeeland coast every two to three months, but visitors can always guarantee they will get to try some of the best local seafood and shellfish the Netherlands have to offer. Zeeland oysters are Herman's speciality, his latest take being Miso Cream with Bergamot, Zeeland Oyster & Shrimps, Sake Jus & Sea Gooseberries served with a Miso Cake & Sea Urchin, but new scallop, mussel and langoustine dishes have all been added to the latest menu. Visitors might regard this as an elaborate joke given the fact that Oud Sluis is based in Beestenmarkt, the former site of the Delft livestock markets, but the food is no laughing matter. The restaurant has also had a revamp this year, and its decor is now described by its owners as "sexy chic".Stefan Chomka
20. Le Calandre
Italy's most famous three-Michelin-starred restaurant reopened in February after a month-long refurbishment of its dining room. Its new look aims to better reflect the philosophy of the kitchen, with its emphasis on purity and high quality raw materials. Indeed, the aim of brothers Massimiliano and Raffaele Alajmo to create a perfect marriage of kitchen and dining room has reached its apotheosis here. Out go the white linen tablecloths and in come beautifully crafted bespoke wooden tables. There's a simple elegance at play that proves utterly seductive. This is a restaurant that offers exceptional cooking in surroundings that are truly convivial. Two types of tasting menu are offered: one serving Le Calandre classics, the other consists of Massimiliano's latest creations – the results of his ingredients research of the past few years.Paul Wootton
21. Steirereck
Heinz Reitbauer describes the food at Steirereck, his stunning art nouveau restaurant in the heart of Vienna's central city park, as a contemporary reinterpretation of Austrian cuisine – a style that has won him plaudits across the country. Time spent working alongside Alain Chapel in Lyon and Anton Mosimann in London has made Reitbauer a strong advocate for dishes that stay true to their roots but still have the power to surprise. He even puts small cards on the tables, which describe the dishes and their origins in detail. Provenance is high on Reitbauer's agenda – the restaurant even has its own farm.Stefan Chomka
22. Restaurant Vendôme
From the opulent Schloss Bensberg near Cologne, chef Joachim Wissler continues to push the boundaries of new German cuisine at Restaurant Vendôme. Wissler has been at the forefront of German haute cuisine for more than 15 years, and received his first Michelin star in 1995. With the introduction of the 'Big Expedition', an ambitious 24-course tasting menu, it seems that Wissler's passion for bold flavours and rustic ingredients is undiminished. His progressive use of flavours has earned Wissler three Michelin stars and the right to explore the outer limits of his talent.Tom Spooner
23. Chez Dominique
Charismatic chef-patron Hans Välimäki has been at the helm of Helsinki's Chez Dominique since 1998, when he began the process of transforming it into one of the region's finest restaurants. The accolades soon followed: a Michelin star in 2001, two stars in 2003. In 2006, it moved to a larger 50-cover space with a modern, minimalist decor that is unmistakably Finnish. Välimäki's artistic presentations show off the beauty of fine Nordic ingredients, although you'll find more French and Italian produce on the menus in winter when local sourcing becomes trickier. As a chef, Välimäki loves to surprise and entertain – so dishes are innovative and playful – but the cooking is rooted in classical French techniques and the fun never gets in the way of flavour.Paul Wootton
24. Les Créations de Narisawa
Although viewed by Japanese gourmets as a chef who cooks 'French' food, Yoshihiro Narisawa's approach is informed by Japanese culinary philosophy and uses largely traditional Japanese ingredients. So to the western diner, it's a culinary revelation: a hybrid of French and Japanese cooking. Narisawa left for Europe at 19 and has worked under Bocuse, Robuchon and Girardet. His creative, experimental approach includes sauces inspired by French techniques and food simultaneously rooted in the east, using local wasabi, turnips, plant blossoms, mosses and even soil. The restaurant's modern style matches the food.Joe Lutrario
25. Mathias Dahlgren
Dahlgren offers further proof of the increasing sophistication of Scandinavian cuisine and its mounting influence within the global restaurant scene. Dahlgren opened in Stockholm's exquisite Grand Hôtel just three years ago and has already won a slew of awards. He was heavily influenced by the Spanish new wave but since closing the Latin-oriented Bon Lloc in 1995 Dahlgren now fuses cutting-edge techniques with exquisite local ingredients. He has two restaurants in the Grand Hôtel: the 50-seat Matbaren or 'food bar' is informal, while the 38-cover Matsalen is his elegant dining room. Menus in both restaurants change daily.Paul Wootton
26. Momofuku Ssäm Bar
Ssäm Bar sticks out like a blistered thumb on this list, most notably because while you have to sell a kidney or join a five-year waiting list to get into many of the restaurants here, you can pick up a dish for a handful of bucks at this casual, cramped American bar that also operates a walk-in only policy. It can get pretty crowded, but after a couple of Sake lemonades made with Momofuku branded Honjozo, you'll probably not notice. What they're queuing for is co-owner Tien Ho's edgy mix of classic just-like-mom-makes-it American fodder with a contemporary, oriental bent with dishes such as corned beef terrine with fried egg sauce and tea brined salad. Either that or the beef jerky, pork rinds and cheddar puffed rice from its late night menu.Stefan Chomka
27. Quay
Quay continues to dazzle Sydney's culinary cognoscenti but such is its recent success that the restaurant's influence is now felt far beyond. Quay might be Australia's most dramatic dining location (with views of the Opera House and Harbour Bridge), but chef Peter Gilmore's food is just as awe-inspiring. The menu features unusual and exquisite Australian ingredients; in the Blue Mountains, Quay's owners develop rare crops, such as white raspberries and Chinese artichokes. Its menus, says Gilmore, are designed "from the soil up".Paul Wootton
28. Iggy's
Singapore now boasts two restaurants in the top 50, of which Iggy's is the higher entry. Here the menu has an international feel, as one might expect from a country that has no agricultural industry and sits close to the equator, with the chefs having the pick of both the northern and southern hemispheres depending on the season. But owner Ignatius Chan and his team does much more than just pluck ingredients from their global backyard – instead, Iggy's is a melting pot of styles and flavours that isn't restrained by any culinary conventions or styles, resulting in envelope-pushing combinations and dishes. While the world's kitchens are still offering wagyu beef fillet, for example, Iggy's serves wagyu tongue, slow-cooked with three peppers, micro-greens, yuzu mustard and avocado mousse. Its sweet and sour combination of strawberries prepared three ways (meringue, sorbet, purée) with micro and fruit tomatoes and tomato seeds also demonstrates the team's playful side.Stefan Chomka
29. L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Paris
Currently the most Michelin-starred chef in the world, Joël Robuchon broke the fine-dining mould when he opened this, the original L'Atelier, in the 7th arrondissement in 2003. Partly inspired by Robuchon's travels to Japan and Spain, L'Atelier – meaning "workshop" – offers tapas-style portions of imaginative food, with diners seated on stools around an open-plan kitchen, where they can watch the chefs at work. The result is interactive and theatrical (and now much imitated) but make no mistake, the food is trademark Robuchon – brilliant, rich, luxurious. His pomme purée truffée – truffled mashed potatoes – is one of the most divine creations ever to grace a table. The concept of L'Atelier, with its stylish black and red decor, has proved so successful, there are now six of them all across the world, from Tokyo to Las Vegas.Paul Wootton
30. Schloss Schauenstein
Schloss Schauenstein has been one of Switzerland's worst-kept culinary secrets since influential guide book Gault Millau named its chef Andreas Caminada as Discovery of the Year in 2005. Today it is one of the county's most talked-about restaurants, not least because it is situated in a former castle in the Domleschg Valley, which Caminada bought in 2003 and transformed into a super-slick hotel and restaurant that wouldn't look out of place in a James Bond movie. Gault Millau has since bestowed its ultimate accolade on Caminada twice, naming him Chef of the Year in 2008 and 2010, which may have helped his career but not wannabe diners who now have to wait longer to try his food.Stefan Chomka
31. Le Quartier Francais
There are a number of places to dine in the delightful Le Quartier Francais hotel but it is in The Tasting Room where those in the know get down to the serious business of eating. Here Dutch-born Margot Janse is at the helm combining South Africa's bounty with western influences for a menu that is as down-to-earth and rustic as it is eye-opening and challenging. This year The Tasting Room has been given a makeover by Janse's brother Herbert to bring a more contemporary feel to the dining space – presumably to keep pace with the style of food being served.Stefan Chomka
32. The French Laundry
Thomas Keller's The French Laundry is one of only four restaurants to have topped this list and while it continues now to slide down the ranks it remains one of the most famous and influential restaurants of the past century, thanks to its exceptional French cooking that uses grandstanding American ingredients. Behind the stove is Timothy Hollingsworth, whose desire to cook there led him in 2001 to booking a table and bringing his CV along in the hope of convincing Keller – who himself had no formal culinary training – to take him on as an apprentice. It worked, and finally in July last year Hollingsworth took over from a departing Corey Lee to reach the top position. His approach is patriotic and fastidious and the restaurant's setting among the Napa Valley vineyards, and its abundance of rare Californian wines, means you won't want to drive there.Stefan Chomka
33. Martin Berasategui
With a new restaurant in Shanghai, Martin Berasategui's influence continues unbridled across the globe. But it is at his eponymous San Sebastian restaurant that the heart of his empire beats the loudest. The Basque region inspires Berasategui to temper his penchant for scientific innovation through a reverence towards the region's produce; his dishes are delicate and well-balanced, complemented by an array of froths and ever-evolving culinary flourishes.Tom Spooner
34. Aqua
Sven Elverfeld has spent the past three years immersing himself in the deconstruction and reinterpretation of classic dishes, garnishes and preparation techniques from Germany and Europe. The result? Incredibly accurate two-star cooking that gently challenges the diner's perception of European food. Aqua is found in the Ritz Carlton in Wolfsberg, a striking modern hotel near Volkswagen's Autostadt theme park.Tom Spooner
35. Combal Zero
If you're after something really out there then Combal Zero's Davide Scabin is your man. Armed with his distinctive brand of "hypercreative" cooking, he's been wowing locals and gastrotourists alike since 2002. It's conceptual stuff. In one course, diners are given a kit to simulate the experience of being an elderly Italian gentleman, including six tiny jars of traditional food, a pack of cards and gambling chips. Some of the cooking is a little more restrained, but Combal Zero rarely panders to tradition. The restaurant is set within the Castello di Rivoli, a major contemporary art gallery just a cab ride away from Turin.Joe Lutrario
36. Dal Pescatore
Food and family are deeply ingrained at Dal Pescatore. The restaurant has been in the same hands for three generations and local recipes have been perfected and served in a calm, traditional and homely setting. If this sounds twee, it isn't. And the Santini family could never be accused of standing still. New dishes include fettuccine with fried eel and lentil sauce, and pasta filled with white goose, black truffle and celery root sauce. The restaurant is an isolated idyll set in a nature reserve with only 36 inhabitants, yet is only a half-hour drive from Milan.Joe Lutrario
37. De Librije
Ever fancied eating in a 15th-century Dominican abbey? Then De Librije, located in the former abbey's library, is for you. But don't be fooled by the building's austere heritage. The three-Michelin-starred De Librije offers a luxurious dining experience, whether in the kitchen, the main library restaurant or the first floor salon, a private dining room with space for 36 guests. Husband and wife team Jonnie Boer, who runs the kitchen, and Thérèse Boer-Tausch, who oversees the front of house, grew up in the area and sourcing local ingredients is central to the restaurant's philosophy. The terrace, where aperitifs are served, offers views of the old medieval wall and the monastery church. This is both a restaurant and a retreat.Paul Wootton
38. Tetsuya's
Japanese-born Tetsuya Wakuda is one of Sydney's favourite adopted sons. His elegant eponymous restaurant brought the Australian city to the culinary world's attention long ago and he continues to delight and amaze with dishes that blend classical French techniques with the clean, seasonal flavours central to Japan's culinary philosophy. Fish is Tetsuya's speciality, including a terrine of Queensland spanner crab with avocado. Inventive desserts include an excellent chocolate ganache with green tea and red beans.Paul Wootton
39. Jaan par André
Jaan par André started out as Jaan when it opened as a Khmer-French restaurant in Singapore's Swissôtel The Stamford but the arrival of André Chiang in July 2008 marked a new image, cuisine style and philosophy. Chiang aims to reveal "the artistic aspiration and inspirations" of 1960s nouvelle cuisine in a more contemporary manner, with ground-breaking dishes such as his evolving Snickers dessert, updated every season "to keep guests in constant rapture". So, nothing like the chocolate bar then.Stefan Chomka
40. Il Canto
Housed in a former Carthusian convent dating back to 1314, Il Canto (the chant) is one of the few restaurants in Tuscany that offers non-regional food. Tuscany is a traditional place when it comes to food, and head chef Paolo Lopriore's decision to offer non-native preparations such as curry, wasabi and powered seaweed is a bold one. But it looks to have paid off. Lopriore has won international recognition for his bold, experimental cuisine grounded in the food of Italy but willing to play with non-Italian cooking techniques and ingredients. The high-ceilinged dining room is unabashed Tuscan splendour.Joe Lutrario
41. Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée
Opulence? Alain Ducasse might have invented the word. His restaurant at swish Paris hotel Plaza Athénée is pretty much the last word in luxury. Some 10,000 illuminated pendants hang from the ceiling, the staff wear uniforms designed by Georges Feghaly, and a plate of langoustines and beluga caviar will set you back €175. But if you want a top-notch dining experience in a rarefied atmosphere, Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée takes some beating. Head chef Christophe Moret adopts the classic Ducasse approach: meticulous attention to detail combined with a focus on local, sustainable produce and the finest ingredients.Paul Wootton
42. Oaxen Krog
Oaxen Krog, formerly the much harder to pronounce Oaxen Skärgårdskrog, follows in the El Bulli mould of only opening for six months of the year. The result is an original experience every time you eat there with completely new dishes you won't have tried before, including the restaurant's firm favourites which are given an annual revamp. Magnus Ek's 'Archipelago cuisine' is entrenched in themes and this year's subject is based on the 'rampant and untamed'. Wild game abounds as well as wild fish, berries, mushrooms and herbs in this season's dishes. And Oaxen Krog's legendary pig's head reappears in a new form.Stefan Chomka
43. St John
Set up 15 years ago by Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver, St John is famous for championing enthusiastic consumption of offal, but its contribution to British gastronomy is wider-reaching. Whether it's the kitchen's unfussy (yet carefully and skillfully made) food, rediscovery of traditional British dishes, curt menu descriptions or no-frills decor, it has influenced thousands of restaurants and pubs. The nose-to-tail style may have been adopted by chefs around the country, but St John is the epicentre of offal cookery and among the most influential, revered and cherished UK establishments.Joe Lutrario
44. La Maison Troisgros
The Troisgros family is perhaps France's best-known culinary dynasty. Three generations have run high-end restaurants for 80 years and the flagship La Maison Troisgros has held three stars since 1968. A fair amount of pressure, then, for custodian Michel Troisgros. But his brood's enviable gastronomic reputation has only increased since he took over the restaurant as a result of his light, natural food. Produce-led and unfussy, his dishes are French at heart but regularly reference the simpler, healthier approach of Japan and Italy. New plates for this year include rabbit with oysters and lemon, and chicory flower with pressed caviar.Joe Lutrario
45. WD-50
Since Wylie Dufresne opened WD-50 on New York's Lower East Side in 2003 it has become one of the city's most talked-about restaurants – and, after a four-year absence, it's nice to welcome its return to this list. Dufresne's 'topsy-turvy', experimental cooking pairs unlikely ingredients and challenges long-held food conceptions. New for this year is an aerated foie gras terrine resembling a natural sponge, made by sealing the foie in a container with a one-way valve when liquid, then exposing it to a partial vacuum before allowing it to set. Enough said.Stefan Chomka
46. Biko
Fine dining is a comparatively recent arrival in Mexico, and Biko's brand of avant-garde cooking is hotter than an especially fiery habanero chilli. Conceived in 2007 by Bruno Oteiza and Mikel Alonso, alumni of the nearby Tezka restaurant run in consultation with Basque legend Juan Mari Arzak, Biko is a brooding, postmodern hunk of metal rising out of a well-to-do Mexico City suburb. The inside is strictly light or dark, with colour left to the dishes. As expected from ex-Arzak chefs, the food is creative, Basque and modern. Two menus offer creative and traditional dishes: foie 100% cotton candy (foie gras mixed with yoghurt, wrapped in lettuce and topped by a small cloud of cotton candy and sherry vinegar) is creative, while a rib-eye steak with baby corn and pigs' ears is traditional. Open into the night, this is an achingly hip place where Mexico City high-rollers go to be seen.Joe Lutrario
47. Die Schwarzwaldstube
Chef Harald Wohlfahrt has held three Michelin stars at Die Schwarzwaldstube since 1993 and more than 30 of today's starred chefs have gone through his kitchen at the Hotel Traube Tonbach, which is why getting a table at his hilly restaurant retreat can require some meticulous forward planning or very effective persuasion skills. If you do manage to get one, expect the bounty of the restaurant's Black Forest setting to feature heavily on the menu, as well as the freshest ingredients from France (just one hour away) and some of the most stunning, panoramic views of any restaurant on this list.Stefan Chomka
48. Nihonryori RyuGin
Seiji Yamamoto looks to push culinary boundaries without breaking the central tenets of traditional Japanese cuisine, such as seasonality, integrity of ingredients and cooking methods, at this charming restaurant in Roppongi, a district of Tokyo well known for its vibrant nightlife. His approach has made him one of Japan's most celebrated chefs, both at home and internationally. New dishes include grilled wild duck with fragrance of straw, steamed cold egg custard with sea urchin, and candy apple 2010, a deconstructed dessert featuring apple powder ice cream and hot apple confiture. While some of the food is distinctly cutting-edge, RyuGin's decor is firmly traditional – although no less striking. The interior features 22 decorative plates with designs of Chinese dragons, collected by Yamamoto over the years ('Ryu' means dragon). Comparatively large by Japanese standards, RyuGin offers 24 covers, including a private dining room for four. It currently holds two Michelin stars.Paul Wootton
49. Hibiscus
Born into a bistro-running family in Lyon, Claude Bosi was pre-enrolled on a crash course to gastronomic prowess. After deciding to become a chef at 16, he zigzagged from one temple of haute cuisine to another, including Alain Ducasse, Alain Passard and Michel Rostang. Bosi has a formidable touch – the dining room's restraint is more than made up for by his accomplished, complex and highly imaginative French cooking. He and his team upped sticks from Ludlow to London three years ago and haven't looked back; Hibiscus is a darling of the capital's famously pernickety restaurant critics and has won back the two stars it left in the Midlands.Joe Lutrario
50. Eleven Madison Park
Part of Danny Meyer's Union Square Hospitality Group, Eleven Madison Park has been on the up since chef Daniel Humm joined in 2006. Humm, who earned a Michelin star at Gasthaus zum Gupf in his native Switzerland before moving to the US in 2003, takes a confident, contemporary approach to classical French cooking. His cuisine is complemented by a substantial wine list (arguably the best in the US) and a striking art deco building. The restaurant won its first four-star review from The New York Times in August 2009. One to watch.Paul Wootton
